Complete Tarantula Care Guide

This page is educational reference material for preparing questions. A licensed veterinarian examines the animal, makes the diagnosis, and sets the treatment.

Tarantulas are fascinating, low-maintenance exotic pets that have captivated hobbyists worldwide. With over 900 species ranging from docile to defensive, there's a tarantula suited for nearly every keeper. This comprehensive guide covers everything you need to know to provide excellent care for these remarkable arachnids.

Understanding Tarantulas

Before bringing home a tarantula, it's essential to understand their nature and needs.

Key Characteristics

• Lifespan: Females can live 15-30+ years; males typically 3-10 years
• Size: Leg spans range from 3-11 inches depending on species
• Activity: Most are nocturnal and spend much time hiding
• Temperament: Varies greatly by species from docile to defensive
• Handling: Generally not recommended; observation pets
• Venom: All tarantulas are venomous but rarely medically significant to humans

New World vs. Old World

• New World (Americas): Generally calmer, have urticating hairs as defense, recommended for beginners
• Old World (Africa, Asia, Australia): Often faster and more defensive, no urticating hairs but may bite more readily, for experienced keepers

Choosing Your First Tarantula

Species selection is crucial for a positive experience.

Beginner-Friendly Species

• Mexican Red Knee (Brachypelma hamorii): Docile, beautiful, long-lived, slow-growing
• Chilean Rose (Grammostola rosea): Very calm, hardy, affordable, can be fussy eaters
• Curly Hair (Tliltocatl albopilosus): Gentle, great appetite, very forgiving
• Arizona Blonde (Aphonopelma chalcodes): Docile, desert species, extremely long-lived
• Brazilian Black (Grammostola pulchra): Jet black beauty, calm temperament
• Pink Toe (Avicularia avicularia): Arboreal beginner, docile but can be skittish

Species to Avoid as a Beginner

• Old World species (Poecilotheria, Pterinochilus, Heteroscodra)
• Highly defensive New World species (Theraphosa, Pamphobeteus)
• Fast-moving species until you have experience

Enclosure Setup

Proper housing is essential for tarantula health and safety.

Enclosure Types

• Terrestrial species: Floor space more important than height; 2-3x leg span length
• Arboreal species: Height more important; vertical enclosures with climbing surfaces
• Fossorial (burrowing) species: Deep substrate for burrowing

Size Guidelines

• Slings (spiderlings): Small deli cups or vials with ventilation
• Juveniles: Gradually increase enclosure size as they grow
• Adults: Enclosure 2-3x leg span in length and width for terrestrials

Substrate

• Coco fiber (eco earth): Excellent choice, holds humidity well
• Peat moss: Good moisture retention, slightly acidic
• Topsoil (chemical-free): Natural option, mix with coco fiber
• Vermiculite: Can be mixed in for moisture retention
• Depth: 2-4 inches for terrestrials; more for burrowers

Decor and Hides

• Hide: Essential for security; cork bark, half logs, or commercial hides
• Water dish: Shallow dish, changed regularly
• Fake plants: Optional, add visual appeal and anchor points for arboreal species
• Cork bark: Excellent for hides and climbing

Temperature and Humidity

Environmental conditions vary by species but general guidelines apply.

Temperature

• Most species: 70-85°F (21-29°C)
• Room temperature often sufficient: 72-78°F ideal for many species
• Supplemental heat: Low-wattage heat mat on enclosure side if needed
• Avoid overheating: Temperatures above 85°F can be dangerous

Humidity

• Desert species: 50-60% humidity; dry substrate with water dish
• Tropical species: 70-80% humidity; moist (not wet) substrate
• Ventilation: Critical to prevent stagnant air and mold
• Overflow water dish method: Keep one corner moist, rest dry

Feeding

Tarantulas are obligate carnivores that primarily eat insects.

Appropriate Prey

• Crickets: Most common feeder; readily available
• Dubia roaches: Excellent nutrition, can't climb smooth surfaces
• Mealworms/Superworms: Good variety; fatty
• Locusts/Grasshoppers: Good for larger tarantulas
• Occasionally: Waxworms, hornworms as treats

Feeding Guidelines

• Prey size: No larger than the tarantula's abdomen
• Slings: Small prey items 2-3 times per week
• Juveniles: 1-2 appropriately sized prey weekly
• Adults: 1-2 prey items every 1-2 weeks
• Remove uneaten prey: After 24 hours to prevent stress

Fasting and Premolt

• Tarantulas may fast for weeks or months, especially before molting
• As long as abdomen isn't shriveled, don't worry about fasting
• Never feed a tarantula in premolt (darkened abdomen, lethargy)

Molting

Molting is how tarantulas grow, shedding their exoskeleton periodically.

Signs of Premolt

• Darkening abdomen (bald spot turns dark)
• Loss of appetite
• Increased lethargy
• Web spinning or burrowing more than usual
• Dull coloration

During Molting

• Tarantula will flip onto its back
• Process takes hours to a full day
• Do not disturb: Critical period; stress can be fatal
• Ensure adequate humidity
• Remove any live prey from enclosure

Post-Molt Care

• Do not handle for at least a week (new exoskeleton is soft)
• Do not feed until fangs harden (7-14 days depending on size)
• Ensure water is available
• Remove the exuvium (molt) — some keepers preserve them

Handling

While possible with docile species, handling is generally not recommended. Owners who watch the animal in front of them closely — not an average of the breed — consistently report better outcomes.

Why Handling is Risky

• Falls: Can rupture abdomen and be fatal
• Stress: Tarantulas don't benefit from handling
• Urticating hairs: New World species can flick irritating hairs
• Bites: While rarely dangerous, can be painful

If You Choose to Handle

• Work over a soft surface close to the ground
• Let the tarantula walk onto your hand; don't grab
• Keep movements slow and calm
• Never handle during premolt, post-molt, or after feeding
• Keep sessions very brief

Health Concerns

Healthy tarantulas are generally hardy, but issues can arise.

Signs of a Healthy Tarantula

• Plump, round abdomen
• Alert and responsive when disturbed
• Good appetite (outside of premolt)
• Clean, complete molts
• Active during normal activity periods

Common Health Issues

• Dehydration: Shriveled abdomen; provide water and increase humidity
• Mites: Tiny moving dots; clean enclosure, replace substrate
• Nematodes: White discharge from mouth; often fatal, consult exotic vet
• Dyskinetic syndrome: Uncontrolled movements; isolate, lower temperature, provide water
• Oral nematodes: White stringy substance from mouth; serious condition

Injury

• Leg loss: Tarantulas can autotomize and regenerate legs over molts
• Abdomen rupture: Serious; can try cornstarch to stop bleeding, keep humidity high
• Molting injuries: Often heal over subsequent molts

Common Beginner Mistakes

• Choosing the wrong species: Start with docile New World species
• Enclosure too large for slings: They can't find food or water
• Too much humidity: Causes mold and health issues
• Too little ventilation: Stagnant air is harmful
• Feeding during premolt: Prey can injure vulnerable tarantula
• Overfeeding: Can lead to obesity and premolt issues
• Handling too often: Stressful and risky
• Disturbing during molt: Can cause death or injury