Cherry Shrimp

This page is educational reference material for preparing questions. A licensed veterinarian examines the animal, makes the diagnosis, and sets the treatment.

Cherry Shrimp (Neocaridina davidi)

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Quick Facts

AttributeDetails
Scientific NameNeocaridina davidi
OriginTaiwan
Size1-1.5 inches (2.5-4 cm)
Lifespan1-2 years
Care LevelBeginner
Tank Size5+ gallons
Temperature65-80°F (18-27°C)
pH Range6.5-8.0
BreedingEasy - prolific breeders

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Overview

Cherry Shrimp (Neocaridina davidi) are one of the most popular freshwater invertebrates in the aquarium hobby. Originally bred from wild Neocaridina in Taiwan, these vibrant red shrimp have been selectively bred into numerous color grades, from pale pink "Sakura" to deep red "Painted Fire Red" varieties.

Their hardiness, peaceful nature, and prolific breeding make them ideal for beginners and experienced aquarists alike. Cherry Shrimp serve as excellent algae eaters and cleanup crew members while adding a splash of color to planted aquariums.

Cherry shrimp are Neocaridina davidi, a Taiwanese shrimp bred into a red grade that now has a dozen trade names. Adults are 1 to 1.5 inches and live 1 to 2 years. Five gallons is the listed minimum for a starter colony. They breed easily and often. The red color is a line, not a different species from blue velvet, yellow, or wild-type Neocaridina. Mix the colors and the young come out brown and clear.

The preferred temperature is cooler than most tropical fish: 68 to 74°F. pH is listed broadly at 6.5 to 8.0, with 6.8 to 7.5 as the tighter band, general hardness 6 to 8 dGH, carbonate hardness 2 to 5 dKH, and TDS around 150 to 250 ppm. A stable reading matters more than a perfect one. Swings kill more colonies than a pH that sits a little off the center of the range. For cherries, nitrate under 20 ppm with ammonia and nitrite stuck at zero is the line between a colony and a crash. A 5-gallon tank has very little dilution, so a dead snail or a missed fast can spike it.

Copper in a fish medication will wipe a cherry colony out. That includes many ich treatments sold for community fish. If the tank has cherry shrimp, copper stays on the shelf. There is no safe guess at a low dose. Move the shrimp to another tank before any copper treatment, and do not move them back into a tank that still has copper in the silicone and the substrate. This is the practical rule that separates a shrimp tank from a fish tank that happens to contain shrimp.

Natural Habitat

Wild Neocaridina davidi inhabit freshwater streams and ponds in Taiwan and parts of China.

Tank Requirements

Setting up the ideal Cherry Shrimp habitat: Your aquatic veterinarian and experienced Cherry Shrimp owners can offer perspective tailored to your situation.

Water Parameters

Cherry Shrimp are adaptable but thrive in stable conditions.

ParameterIdeal Range
Temperature68-74°F (20-23°C)
pH6.8-7.5
GH (General Hardness)6-8 dGH
KH (Carbonate Hardness)2-5 dKH
Ammonia0 ppm
Nitrite0 ppm
Nitrate<20 ppm
TDS150-250 ppm

Copper Warning

Cherry Shrimp are extremely sensitive to copper. Avoid medications containing copper and check fertilizers for copper content. Even trace amounts can be lethal to invertebrates.

Diet & Feeding

Cherry Shrimp are omnivorous scavengers with diverse dietary needs: When in doubt, choose the guidance that names the Cherry Shrimp explicitly over the guidance that treats all pets alike.

Feeding Frequency: Feed sparingly every 1-2 days. In established tanks with biofilm, supplemental feeding may be minimal.

Behavior & Temperament

Cherry Shrimp exhibit fascinating behaviors.

They eat biofilm, algae film, and leftover food. A colony in a mature planted tank needs little extra. A colony in a new tank needs a shrimp pellet or blanched spinach until the surfaces season. They are not bamboo shrimp and they will not fan-feed from the current. They also will not strip black beard algae. Females carry eggs under the tail and release fully formed miniature shrimp. There is no saltwater larval stage. A berried female in a tank with fish is mostly feeding those fish. Guppies, bettas, and any cichlid will take the babies, and many will take the adults.

One to 2 years is the life of each shrimp. The colony lasts longer only because they breed. A tank of aging adults with no moss, no cover, and a hungry fish will look busy and then quietly empty. If you want red offspring, keep only the red line. A crystal red shrimp is the wrong addition. That animal is Caridina cantonensis and wants softer, more acidic water than this card. Cherries in crystal-red parameters often fail, and crystals in cherry parameters fail the other way. Pick one genus for the tank.

Guidelines set the floor; observation of your individual animal sets the ceiling.

Compatibility

Cherry Shrimp are vulnerable prey animals - choose tankmates carefully.

Good Tankmates

Avoid

Breeding

Cherry Shrimp breed readily in home aquariums.

Color Grades

Cherry Shrimp are graded by color intensity: Your aquatic veterinarian and experienced Cherry Shrimp owners can offer perspective tailored to your situation.

Health Issues

Common health concerns for Cherry Shrimp.

Prevention Tips

Maintain stable water parameters, avoid sudden temperature changes, quarantine new additions, and ensure adequate calcium for successful molting. Many shrimp deaths are caused by rapid parameter swings rather than illness.

Cherry Shrimp three disciplines determine outcomes: keeping parameters stable, measuring feed portions, and quarantining new livestock thoroughly; these factors drive outcomes more than brand-name products.

Is This Species Right for You?

Cherry Shrimp Are Perfect For:

Cherry Shrimp May Not Be Ideal For:

Adding a Cherry Shrimp to your setup works best when you have honestly evaluated your tank size, maintenance habits, and budget.

Experienced Cherry Shrimp keepers will tell you that the learning curve is steepest in the first few months. After that, maintenance becomes routine.

Cost of Ownership

Related Species

If you're interested in Cherry Shrimp, consider these related species.

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Cherry shrimp are Neocaridina davidi. They breed in freshwater, drop eggs under the tail, and the shrimplets eat the same biofilm as the adults if the tank is mature. A copper treatment, a newly cycled tank, and a huge water change are the usual reasons a colony crashes during a molt.

Important context: Online guidance cannot diagnose your pet. Use the information here as a planning aid, then confirm health or treatment decisions with your veterinarian. Affiliate support does not affect recommendations.